Art Photography and the Digital Future: Reinventing the Status Quo

This was written for a digital literacy course in 2001.  My ideas haven’t changed much since then.  I am leaving out the footnotes, except to note where references exist, but if anyone would like the references, please feel free to contact me. 

The end of semester student photography exhibit is a common occurrence in colleges where photography is taught (ref). On  the surface, such exhibits do not look very different in 2001 than they did in 1991. The print quality is usually excellent. The prints are carefully archivally matted and framed for gallery or museum-like presentation. The sophistication and complexity of the students’ photographic vision varies widely, as is to be expected with student work. Contrary to superficial appearances, however, there are substantial differences between the photos on the student gallery walls in 2001 and those in 1991. As one student put it: “I don’t think there is a photo here which hasn’t passed through Photoshop.” What is surprising about this is that the images don’t show obvious indebtedness to Photoshop. With one or two exceptions, there is very little montage or collage among the works. They don’t look like Absolut Vodka ads. They look very much like photography has looked for a long time. There are sensitive and thoughtful portraits. There are carefully composed landscapes and cityscapes. There is some mixed media and combining of texts and images. The primary way in which the images differ from those in 1991 is that they are not traditional silver photographic prints.

These images were, in fact printed on photographic quality paper with an ink-jet printer through a computerized system. Such printers spray tiny jets of ink to create the image. If looked at with a magnifying glass, the lines of the ink-jet path across the paper can be discerned.  A traditional silver photographic print, if looked at under magnification, will reveal the clumping together pattern of the grains of silver. This patterning is random, not linear.  However, when viewed at a conventional viewing distance, even up close with the naked eye, these prints are indistinguishable from their darkroom, silver based predecessors. Without a discernible difference in the appearance of the product, the nature of art photography practice has changed. The potential for digital imaging to change the nature of photography has been remarked upon for some time (refs). digitization alters the nature of the photographic process. The digital file can replace the negative. Photoshop and the ink-jet printer replace the enlarger and developing trays. Will art photography evolve into a new digital art form or will it cloak itself in new technologies to make an art product similar to what has been made for the last fifty years?

Photography has always occupied a somewhat ambiguous position in the art-making community. At first it was considered too mechanical to be an artistic practice. By the time silver prints were finally gaining museum and collector acceptance in the 1970’s and 1980’s, the digitization of the medium was underway (ref). Part of what established photography as an art was the cachet attached to unique silver prints. While a photograph could never be like an original painting or drawing, the argument went, the process of photography involved the hand of the artist: at the moment of exposure and then later in the darkroom. Art photographers were encouraged to sign and number their prints, like printmakers. Photographers who relied on commercial or machine-made prints or who had assistants print their work were held in less esteem than those who did their own darkroom work. The idea of an intimate connection between the artist and the finished product was important in photography’s attempt to gentrify itself into a high art form. Even though photographs were mechanically produced, it was suggested, they still had many attributes of traditional high artworks and were, thus, collectible.

In 1998 a Dorothea Lange print sold at auction for $244,500. (ref). Entitled “Human Erosion in California 1936” this print is one of her most widely reproduced photographs and so would be easily recognized as a well-known photographic work. In addition, this particular print had an element, a portion of a child’s hand, in the lower right corner, which Lange had removed in later versions, thus making it a very unique print and contributing to the high price the Getty Museum paid.

Lange’s is an interesting example because it parallels some of the issues brought up by the digitization  of the medium. Photographers have altered photographs since the invention of the medium (ref). In the late 19th Century the fact that photographs could be altered  increased their acceptability as art in some circles. Artist intervention was seen as superior to strict mechanical representation. Digitization can aid this tendency toward artistic control. While Lange had to alter the negative or crop the print in some way to remove the child’s hand, the contemporary photographer can alter the digital file.

With lens and silver based photography, the starting point of the photographic image is the negative (ref). Historically, as in Lange’s case, and in thousands of others, negatives were manipulated and combined to create the works photographic artists saw in their imaginations. Digitization can intervene at several stages in the photographic process. A digital image file can be the starting point if the original image is taken with a digital camera. Or, the negative or transparency can be digitized and a file created at that point. Lastly, an already existing silver print can be scanned or photographed, resulting in a digital file.

William J. Mitchell argues that with digitization the file itself becomes the “original” work of art (ref). Mitchell goes on to suggest that digital files create artwork that is allographic, functioning something like a musical score. The work is never completed, never static, but changing with each generation or re-generation. The digital work of necessity becomes a group or team endeavor. This description is appropriate for NASA’s image files and many scientific applications, but it is not so easily applied to current art photography. Art photography continues to be a fairly solitary endeavor and not very group or team oriented. Group process may not be intrinsic to digitization. In fact, given the nature of computers as a one-on-one work environment, individualization seems at least as appropriate. Individual authorship in art photography may not diminish, as Mitchell predicts (ref), and future photographic artists may well preserve individual authorship very successfully.

When photographers make prints from individual negatives, the longevity of the negative during the repetitive process is something like printmaking. As a lithographic stone or printing plate deteriorates with use, a negative deteriorates as well. However, the negative’s degradation is more a result of handling than actual physical pressure, as in printmaking. The negative gets scratched. Dust collects; the negative has to be cleaned. It gets scratched again. Photographic prints made earlier in a negative’s life will likely be higher quality than those made later. Mitchell is right to point out that this just doesn’t happen with a digital file (ref). Even though digital image files can be ephemeral and highly mutable (ref), they have the potential to be much more stable than negatives or printing plates. What this means is that digital prints can theoretically be generated at any time without regard to intrinsic longevity.

In practical terms, there may be a caveat: computer systems and software change. Today’s file from Photoshop 6.0 may not open in later versions of the program. However, this potential for reproducibility is what really makes the May 2001 student photo exhibit different. If all those prints on exhibit were to deteriorate or were destroyed, one hundred years from now, if someone came across the CD-ROM, the prints could all be produced again, exactly as the students had intended them to look, provided the “antique” software and appropriate printers could be re-activated.

This is heart warming in some ways. All that artwork is preserved from the ravages of time and air and light and moisture. If a print in a particular exhibit or collection gets damaged, just print another one. But, consider the havoc this can create in the already fragile photographic art market. If artworks are easily replaceable, where is their value as a collectible?

First, there is no doubt that silver prints, signed and made by art photographers, will appreciate dramatically as the implications of digitization begin to sink in to the consciousness of the collecting public. This is already the case with the big names, but anything silver-based will be likely to appreciate. There is a brisk market in vernacular photography on eBay, and this will only accelerate as attic troves of silver prints become more and more scarce.

Color photography presents other problems. A large percentage of the vernacular color photographic prints of the 1950’s, 1960’s and 1970’s were unstable, and these have already degraded badly. On the art production end, photographers were aware of these permanence problems, and many attempted to use the most stable color processes for their work. These more stable color prints, along with Kodachrome slides, which have always been well-known for their longevity, will probably rise in value along with black and white prints. An excellent recent example of the increasing attention to Kodachrome slides is the Cushman Archive at Indiana University (ref). While the decision here has been to share these wonderful Kodachrome images on the WWW, their implicit value is recognized by the university library’s decision to create the archive and so valorize them.

But museums and libraries that readily collect black and white silver prints and Kodachrome slides may well be suspicious about collecting digital prints. Current research indicates that high quality ink-jet prints are very stable and permanent, (ref). Longevity, historically a bugaboo with collecting color photographic work, can no longer be seen as a serious issue, and digitization has created the potential to make infinite multiple artworks from the same source.

Right now it may take some time for the collecting public to notice that there are fundamental differences between digital and traditional silver photographic prints. After all, the digital and photographic print can look superficially identical. Will digital artists find ways to make their work attractive to collectors and museums? The notion of signed, limited editions (always kind of silly with photography) will probably continue. Some artists may advocate and follow through on destroying their digital files at the end of an edition of digital prints. Collectors may initially shun digital prints the way the painting and print buying public originally shunned silver photographs, but eventually, just as photography became accepted, digital art photography will be accepted, displayed and collected. A.D. Coleman also suggests that a new category of artwork is emerging which he calls “computer art” (ref). Such works, whether they exist on the WWW, on CD- ROM’s, or in printed versions may in embody the true potential of digital media in the visual arts. Like photographs at the birth of the medium one hundred and fifty years ago these digital artworks will now be the poor cousins in the art establishment and occupy the ambiguous position photography occupied for so long.

Graduation Memory

This was written about 1995.

I graduated from high school in 1959.

I don’t remember much about my high school graduation. We wore robes with hats and tassels. The high school orchestra played “Pomp and Circumstance.” They were slightly off-key but it was music I liked, and it gave me goose-bumps. Both my parents attended my graduation, an event in itself, because they were not much given to public occasions. I was glad they had come. I was glad they were proud of me.

School was my life, it had been for a long time, and I sensed that it would continue to be for a long time. I kept hoping, even then, that my parents might understand this. My father, at least, was somewhat open, in the vein of “whatever you want to do is pretty much OK with me.” My mother was more rigid and fearful: “you’ll get so educated you’ll never find yourself a husband; it’s more sensible to go to work and earn a living; you’ll end up an old maid school teacher if you keep this up.” She didn’t exactly say those words, of course, though she had come close many times. She was good at silent disapproval.

I knew, fortunately, that I couldn’t please her and also please myself. I was lucky to have had teachers and counselors who said I would be crazy not to go to college. Even so, it was an ambivalent choice, and one I tried to attenuate by both working part-time and going to college as well, and eventually moving away from home. Those were rocky months following my graduation. I did get a pretty good full-time job during the summer, with the false promise that I would continue in September but I quit and started college.

Since I was still seventeen, my mother didn’t want me living away from home, and I wanted the freedom of a college girl. There were bizarre arguments about clothing, the posters in my room, and, of course, money. I had paid for my tuition and books. I had my part-time job. I had some spending money. Basically, I just slept at home. Yet I felt I was being held hostage and counted the days until I turned eighteen.

When I actually did move out, the strain eased. Years later my mother brought up the subject and offered a sort of explanation. She said she felt everyone was against her just then, especially me. And, years later, my sister told me that she thought that at that time our mother was abusing the tranquilizers she had been taking for back pain.

How to transfer photographs to fabric using an ink-jet printer

There is a very useful video on YouTube detailing how to print photos onto fabric using an ink-jet printer. It’s called “Transferring Photos onto Fabric” and was posted by pennyh123.

This  post links back to my first post about transferring photographs to fabric using color copiers and transfer paper. For the complete text, look under Transferring Photographs to fabric. 

Enjoy.

Ironing

Written about 1995.

My iron started acting unreliable and became over-heated a few days ago. Some weeks before, when I had attended a quilt show in Paducah, Kentucky, my traveling companion and I discussed the virtues of the latest, brand new super-sonic, float-on-a-bed-of-steam, drive themselves irons which were not only available during the show, but were on sale at reduced prices.

My friend, an excellent life-long seamstress, said she had given up on steam irons completely. When her last one died, (and she remembered paying close to $100 for it), she had searched the second hand stores for months until she found just the right kind of extra heavy, non-steam, no-holes-in-the-base plate old fashioned iron she wanted. She had it rewired, got out the spray bottle, and was quite happy, thank-you-very-much. I had, nevertheless, looked somewhat longingly at the float-on-a-bed-steam, new super duper irons, not knowing I would have an opportunity to consider their purchase so soon.

I am not a person who buys clothing that requires ironing. The ironing that I do is related to my quilt making. I grew up hating ironing, and perhaps because I have been freed from it for so many years, I have come to regard the little Ironing I have to do in a neutral, if not pleasant way.

It is impossible to iron fast; or rather, it is impossible to iron too fast and do a good job of it. If you rush, or turn the iron up too high, you can end up damaging the garment. Perhaps that is what I found so frustrating about ironing originally. It was there; it had to be done; it took a certain amount of time, and there was just no avoiding it.

I went to junior high school in a time of blouses with puffed, starched sleeves and full cotton skirts, likewise starched and ironed slick. It was a time before the household dryer was commonplace. The few motorized washing machines, with round windows in their doors, were watched by groups of curious children with just a tiny bit less fascination than the first television sets would be watched a few years later. As I frequently remind my own teenage daughter, we just had fewer clothes. They got washed once a week, and, of course, ironed, and they were worn several times before they were washed again. School clothes were taken off after school, so that they would be clean to wear again later in the week.

I wasn’t responsible for much of my own ironing until I was in my teens. As a little girl I had a toy ironing board and iron, and even later, as an older child, I had a small toy electric iron that actually heated up. Ironing is on of those things that look easy, and I thought I could do it. I was allowed to practice on table napkins and dishtowels; later, on pillowcases and sheets. It was only after scorching and damaging a few household items that I was cautioned to observe more carefully and even ask for advice about how to do this. I learned to use a spray bottle and damp down all the clothes, and to wait before ironing them. I learned the mysteries of gooey starch.

But I learned to iron seriously by preparing my gym suit for junior high school gym classes. Gym suits were brought home each weekend for cleaning. Our laundry day was during the week, so the gym suit was out of synchronization with the rest of the washing. Thus, the gym suit was washed out by hand on Saturday and hung out to dry. Then it was sprinkled and wrapped in an old but clean pillowcase sometime Saturday evening or Sunday, then, hopefully, ironed on Sunday night to be taken to school bright and early Monday. Starching the suit was not required, but ironing was. One of the ways to make the fact that the suit was clean and ironed more obvious was to starch it; so many girls, myself included, did that.

The gym suit was not an easy garment to iron. It snapped down the front and had a pocket. The “bottoms” were gathered around the leg and thus puffed, like bloomers. We all knew that the ridiculousness of this garment’s construction was so that boys wouldn’t be able to see our underwear as we played sports. We tried to make these silly outfits more fashionable by rolling up the elastic legged bottoms as high as our teachers would allow. But this was all after they were delivered to school in neatly folded, starched bundles each week.

Scorching was the most serious risk with these garments. One time I scorched a leg so badly I could smell it all week during gym class, and the brown burn mark never really washed out. I scorched other blouses. I scorched skirts. I probably scorched most of the garments I owned at one time or another, until the advent of the steam iron. And the steam iron didn’t stop my scorching all together. It just made it harder for me to do.

Thus, like the Amish, I was pleased with the advent of wash-and-wear clothing. It was late in high school, or maybe I had already started college, when the first daring housewife hung out these marvelous new shirts (for men, of course) to dry on hangers, dripping wet. When I got my first job after college and felt enormously affluent, I still had my clothes ironed at a laundry. Then slowly, over the years, the fashions and technology changed. Clothes were designed to be tumbled dry in the new automatic dryers; rumpled, soft cottons became fashionable. People, at least in North America, owned lots and lots of clothes.

So it is somewhat strange that I find myself ironing at all. When I first started quilt making, about six years ago, I did not own an iron. I resisted buying one, and the companion ironing board, until it became just too obvious that an iron and ironing board would, in fact, make my work much easier. And they did. And I’ve used the iron enough to wear it out in six years and face choosing a new one. Should I go all out for the latest model super-steam version, or like my seamstress friend, hunt the second hand shops for an old-fashioned, simpler-but-better model?

I haven’t made up my mind yet.

Script for a National Library Week Video

My name is Aneta Sperber and I teach photography here at Rodriguez High School.

This is National Library Week, and I’d like to share a bit about what libraries have meant to me.

As a child I grew up in Oakland, California, and my local library was the Temescal  Branch of the Oakland Public Library System.

The Temescal Branch was, I think, a Carnegie built library. It was brick and solid, and survived even earthquake retrofitting. It stands proudly today and is still a wonderful, magical place to me.

When I needed a place to relax, where it was quiet, so I could think, the library was there.

When I needed a place to study and do my homework, the library was there for me.

When I needed a place to explore, to travel in my imagination and dream, the library was there.

When I needed answers to questions, when I needed information, the library was there.

When I needed entertainment– music, DVD’s, and books– the library was there for me.

Libraries are still free, and they offer more than ever. Libraries are there for you, just waiting for you to use them.

 

Transferring photographs to fabric

This piece was first written in the mid-1990s, and was last updated in 2001. It still contains information I consider valuable, although a couple of points should be noted:

  • Color copiers have substantially changed, and few now use the resins that made the early color copier transfers so permanent and beautiful.
  • Ink-jet printing now dominates the printing on fabric market. (Though this is not the case for T-shirts and other fabric items that will not lay flat to pass through an ink-jet printer.)

Transferring photographs to fabric

with transfer paper: the pros and cons
(probably more than you ever wanted to know…)

Finding out the directions, so you can follow them correctly?

What are the differences between thick and thin transfer paper?

Why is all this crankiness about putting transfer paper in color copiers, anyway?

Why are some places willing to put pictures on transfer paper when some won’t?

Irons and dry mount presses

Other ways to transfer: computers and printers

What about the fabric?

I did all this just right and my transfers still look lousy!

There are many brands of transfer paper available for people who want to transfer photographs to fabric themselves. Transfer paper is, so far as I know, the only safe method, which does not use a computer, to try at home.

Some persons have described using solvents to transfer the toners from color copiers, but I would highly recommend against this approach. SOLVENTS are incredibly DANGEROUS and require a high level of safety precautions. They are definitely in the DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME category. 

Transfer paper is, therefore, the medium of choice for transferring color copies at home. There are many brands of transfer paper available, and I am not going to talk about specific brands. Anyone can buy transfer paper in bulk and market it themselves. Just because it comes in a package from the XYZ Quilt Boutique doesn’t tell you a thing about what kind of transfer paper it is. (Believe me, the XYZ Quilt Boutique is not manufacturing transfer paper in their back room.) To figure out what kind of transfer paper you are using, it helps to know the manufacturer, not the distributor. Some distributors tell you what brand of transfer paper they are selling and pass on the manufacturer’s instructions verbatim. Others rewrite the instructions.

Why is knowing the transfer paper manufacturer important? 

By knowing who manufactures the paper you can get some idea of the paper’s actual specifications. What you really need to know is the paper’s heat sensitivity range. I’ll explain the importance of the heat range below in talking about color copiers. (All transfer paper is, actually, is paper with a coating of plastic on it. The coating of plastic is lightly bonded to something like a silicone base, so that it will peel away when heated to a certain temperature.) Most transfer papers today describe themselves as “thin.” The “thin” papers were especially designed to go through color copiers more easily. The older transfer papers which have been on the market for years and years can be considered “thick,” and it still possible to purchase them.

What are the differences between “thick” and “thin” transfer paper?

For practical purposes, the thick transfer papers make a stiffer, thicker transfer than the thin ones. If you think about what transfer paper is actually doing, it is easy to understand why. The transfer paper is making a sandwich. The bottom of the sandwich is your fabric. The middle stuff in the sandwich is the toners or ink from the copier or printer. The top stuff on the sandwich is the plastic from the transfer paper. The thicker the layer of plastic from the transfer paper is, the more plastic or stuff there is to hold the whole package together. The thicker the transfer paper is, the better it will stand up to washing (although there is a point of diminishing returns here, for, if the transfer paper is too thick, it will start to crack under stress).

Historically speaking, the early transfer papers were thick and fairly low temperature. The low temperature meant that some of them could be ironed on at home, although even pressure has always been a tricky issue with transfer paper. This lower melt temperature for the plastic, however, presented problems for the color copiers (CLC’s) that came on the market in the late 1980’s. The newer, thinner, higher temperature transfer papers  were specifically developed to meet these problems.

What is the problem with transfer paper in the color copier anyway? (or why can’t I get that done here?)

Color copiers use resin toners to make the image. Resins are plastic, and they are fused to the paper with heat. The last stage when the color copier makes a copy is that the paper passes underneath a fuser roller. The fuser roller is HOT. It is so hot that many transfer papers melt and jam, or at very least leave a gunky residue which will eventually mean extra maintenance for the copier. The transfer paper manufacturers face a two-edged sword here: if the transfer paper is made so that it melts at a higher temperature (and messes up the color copier less) then it is much harder to get the image to release from the paper onto fabric at home. If the transfer paper is made to melt at a lower temperature, and is thus easier to iron on at home, they face the wrath of the color copier maintenance folks.

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Why is color copier maintenance such a big deal?

(Or, why I use my sewing machine to sew leather when the instruction book says it wasn’t designed to sew leather and why does the needle keep breaking… or, when was the last time you took apart your computer mouse and cleaned it? )

These may not be perfect analogies, but they will give you an idea of what is going on. Color copiers are notoriously temperamental machines. They cost anywhere from $1000 (used) to $60,000 (new with bells and whistles) and up. The “purchase”of a color copier is usually done by a lease/buy out agreement. Very few folks just pay cash for a copier. Part of the initial lease contract includes a maintenance agreement, and it is obligatory. (You don’t own the copier yet, and you won’t, fiscally speaking, actually own it for a few years. The lease company still owns it, and they can call the shots.) The maintenance agreement means that in addition to the money paid each month to the leasing institution for the copier, the copier user/owner also pays a monthly service fee to a local copier service organization. In this maintenance agreement, the copier service folks can specify many things, and one of them is that only a certain kind of paper be put through the color copier. Now, why would they do this? Clearly, it saves the service people labor and parts and money.

What will happen if a user/owner puts transfer paper through the copier anyway, in violation of their maintenance agreement?

The usual consequence, if the maintenance folks locate the source of the problem, is that the monthly maintenance fee is increased substantially, and the person is warned not to do it again. If they do it again and get caught, the service contract can be terminated. That means that the color copier service is then on a per call basis, at upwards of $100.00 per hour (Yes, that’s one hundred dollars an hour, and I’m told that’s cheap.) The out of pocket costs for “per call” service on a color copier can be astronomical compared to a monthly service contract. So this is a big incentive to NOT put transfer paper through your color copier.

Why then are some copier places willing to use transfer paper and others won’t?

A lot depends on the copier place’s volume, the age of the copier, and other variables. Some Mom and Pop and other independent copy places do not carry service contracts. They may have someone on the staff with a copier repair background. The volume is important because service contracts are tied to it. A very large volume copy store which may be part of a national chain (which shall remain nameless), may have sufficient color copy volume so that a few sheets of transfer paper every month are not going to be noticed in the overall maintenance pattern.

A number of years ago the large chain which shall be nameless started doing T-shirt transfers in a big way. My personal theory is that the transfer paper people convinced them there was a fortune to be made in T-shirts. Anyway, with so many stores and so much volume, the thinking may have gone: who cares if our maintenance goes up, we’ll make it up from the profits on T-shirts. Well, they apparently didn’t, and now only a few remaining stores in the chain will do T-shirt transfers. I haven’t a clue what they have based this decision on.

I have also known of some places which approached the issue in other ways. One Mom and Pop store is always careful to run twenty or so sheets of blank paper through the copier after every transfer paper job to clean out
the gunk. Another place, in an amusement arcade, and specializing in T-shirt transfers, found that their T-shirt volume and profit was sufficient to allow them to negotiate a higher priced service contract to keep the copier clean and running. And now, back to transfer paper…

With all this going on, it is no wonder that people using transfer paper get frustrated. (And we haven’t even touched on the issue of getting a decent quality image on the transfer paper itself!) As I said, most of the transfer papers available today are of the thinner variety. The problem with the thinner ones, from a washability standpoint is this: Remember that the top layer of the sandwich is a thin layer of plastic. When these are washed, the plastic cracks ever so slightly. What then happens is that loose fabric fibers migrate up through the tiny cracks. Think of grass growing through cracks in the sidewalk. After these transfers are washed, they look fuzzy. That’s why many of these thin papers recommend ironing the transfer after washing it! In all fairness, these papers were designed for the T-shirt industry, but imagine having to iron the transfers in quilt after washing it!

Irons and dry mount presses

Most transfer papers are designed for commercial use rather than home use. They therefore assume that you have a heat press or dry mount press. Heat presses and dry mount presses are the presses you see in framing shops and T-shirt transfer places. There are many varieties which will work. They are pretty expensive new, so I wouldn’t recommend buy one just to do transfers for your quilt, but you are likely to find them sitting around unused in community center crafts or photo workshops, libraries, high schools, etc. They are built to last forever, so they can be cleaned up and used very easily. These presses make doing it yourself almost fool proof. If you can get past the copier issues, and have a good looking copy on your transfer paper (this is pretty much a “what you see is what you get” process), and find a heat press to use, you are home free. Using your iron at home is really the major technical glitch in home transfers.

Heat presses deliver an even amount of heat and an even amount of pressure for a specified length of time. Even heat and pressure is the key to a lasting and good looking transfer. For larger transfers (bigger than say, 3″ x 5″), the heat press becomes more essential. Think of how small the base plate of your iron is. It can only deliver even heat and pressure to an area that fits on the base plate. Every time you move the iron you are changing the heat and the pressure. Most people, pressing down very hard on their irons deliver about 8-10 lbs per square inch of pressure. A heat press delivers about 30 lbs per square inch of pressure. Therefore, the plastic is going to be more thoroughly pressed into the fabric by a factor of 3! The reason that the pressure is so important has mostly to do with the heat and pressure exerted by the color copier’s fuser roller. Those toners are really bonded to the paper, and it takes comparable heat and pressure to get them to release onto the fabric.

How do I tell how hot my iron is?

Most irons do not have thermostats, but fabric settings, like, cotton, wool, etc. This is a serious problem. I understand there are temperature strips you can buy to test how hot your iron is. It is most important that you are confident that your iron stays at the same temperature once you set it. (I’ve had irons that seem to cool and reheat, even though they are not supposed to.) Experimenting with transfer papers at the settings you do have, and writing down what you use, is one way to go. Most transfer papers work in the +300 degree (F) range.

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Hasn’t anybody figured out any other ways to do this?

There are really lots of transfer systems. There are pastes you paint over the color copy and then iron or scrape off. There used to be a home transfer method called “Picture This” which used a plastic about as thick as a credit card. I heard that product was discontinued due to some legal issues, but it was easy and foolproof and very permanent if you didn’t mind the thick plastic surface.

There are also a number of “two step” systems. The “two step” systems were developed to avoid to plastic-in-the-copier issue. Basically, they insert an extra stage in the process. You make the copy on plain paper; then you press the copy onto the transfer paper; then you press the transfer paper onto the fabric. There are folks who have happily been using these “two step” processes for years. When the CLC’s first came on the market, Canon attempted to market its own two-step system, but it never seems to have gotten off the ground, and now they seem to have put their marketing emphasis on the home bubble jet transfer paper.

Can I use my computer printer instead of a color copier?

First of all, we need to distinguish between two basic kinds of color computer printers. If your printer has a fuser roller which is hot and the print comes out hot, you have a printer which uses toners. These are very high end (expensive) printers, like the Apple LaserWriter, and the Lexmark Optra C.

If you have a print which comes out cool and/or wet, you have an ink jet type printer. These are also called bubble jet, and (somewhat deceptively) laser jet printers. The first important consideration, aside from transfer paper and everything else, is that only the computer printers which use toners make permanent colors. All of the ink jet and bubble jet inks are fugitive *, that is, they fade in the light. Spraying a fixative spray on an ink jet transfer may make it more washable, but it does not change the nature of the light fastness of the inks. I know there are companies working on the issue, but, as of this writing the most light fast, commonly available ink jet inks will only last about 18 months. (There has been a whole to-do in the art world about the permanency of the “giclee” prints, and one of the companies which had claimed to have a permanent ink, has now backed down and is doing the equivalent of recalling the prints they made…..) The more permanent inks which do exist are mostly available for the high end ink jet printers, like the Iris series. Toners, on the other hand, are extremely permanent.

Given the printer you have, there are most likely transfer papers available for it. All the heat issues that apply to color copiers also apply to computer printers which use toners, and even more so, because computer printers can be even more temperamental than color copiers. Since the transfer papers which go through the ink jet printers are not exposed to heat,  they can iron on very easily because their overall melt temperature can be lower. Be sure to use a paper designed for your printer.

A recent product has come on the market which promises to make the computer printer a very viable method of putting your images on fabric. It is a product which you use to coat or soak the fabric Then you dry the fabric, iron it to freezer paper, then print to it directly. Caryl Bryer Fallert markets this product, called Bubble Jet Set on her Web site at http://bryerpatch.com/faq/bjs.htm.

In addition, there are still more transfer systems. One is thermal wax transfer, the second is sublimation transfer. Thermal wax comes from specific computer printer ribbons in Fargo (and possibly other) printers. Sublimation transfers have generally been avoided by quilters because they only work on polyester, but this process gives very soft transfers, with wonderful detail. (My thanks to Barbara McKie for reminding me of these methods)

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What about the fabric?

If you are using transfer paper, fabric you want to transfer onto has to be ableto stand the amount of heat you will have to use to transfer the image.Some synthetics start to melt at about 250 degrees, so they would not be good candidates for high temperature transfer papers.

In transferring at home with your iron, there is often a certain amount of image size distortion because you are pulling the transfer paper away from the fabric, usually at an angle. Thus the print turns out some sort of diamond shape, rather than rectangular. Most transfer papers can be ironed on (or should be able to be ironed on… Don’t use one you can’t iron it….) You can easily iron the image square again.

Some people like to transfer onto fabric that has not been washed because it is stiffer and seems to distort a bit less than pre-washed fabric. The only issue of concern here is that the sizing in the fabric be able to withstand the heat you need to transfer without scorching. In general, the cheaper the fabric, the more sizing and the more likelihood of scorching. Almost all fabrics which can withstand the heat can be transferred onto. I have done some wonderful transfers onto open weave fabrics like exotic linens.

There are certain aesthetic issues involved here too. If you want a transfer that is stiff and remains stiff, use a thick transfer paper and an unwashed fabric with lots of sizing. Poly-cotton polished broadcloth makes a transfer that has a sheen like satin and is quite wonderful for certain  projects. If you want a transfer that is soft and drapes like fabric, start with a softer fabric and use the thinnest possible transfer paper.

You can transfer onto colored or print fabrics. The thing to remember is that the background color of your fabric is going to be the background color of the photo. (To have a white background photo on colored fabric is a whole other kettle of fish… silk screeners do it on T-shirts with a layer of white paint first. I know of no easy way to do it with transfer paper on fabric.

You also need to be careful about using those overprinted, tone-on-tone fabrics, (i.e. little white designs on a beige fabric). I have found that the ink/paint/dye on these fabrics is often very low temperature and melts, making a mess. Hand screen printed fabrics can do this as well, so test them first.

I did all this just right and my transfers still look lousy!

The color copier is a marvelous machine, but it is only as good as the technician operating it, and it is also only as good as the service level at which it has been maintained. A good color copy should really look a lot like your original photograph. It should be focused as sharply; the color should look the same; and all the colors should be in register. There is really very little loss of image quality with a well working color copier, except at very extreme enlargements (say over 200%). In general, the transfers will look darker than the copies. If you prefer lighter transfers, start with lighter copies. If your copies on transfer paper don’t resemble your original photos, don’t bother to try to iron them on. They aren’t going to improve much in the transfer process…

A good color copier technician should have lots of experience with the color copier. A background from the four color printing or photographic printing fields is a bonus. The color copier itself is maintained by the service people to copy photos within an “average” range. If your photos are the least bit unusual (old and faded, for example), the color copier has to be adjusted by hand to accommodate them; its “average” settings won’t work well. If the copier technician has no sense of how to make these adjustments, you are going to get yucky copies. Ask the technician to run tests on your photos before they actually put the transfer paper in the copier. You may have to pay for these tests, but it is better than wasting transfer paper. Talk to the tech or store owner/manager before you start, to make sure you both understand their policies on tests, color correcting, special settings, etc. Mirror image is one setting that always has to be used with transfer paper and some shops charge extra for it.

Suppose you have four photos to copy onto transfer paper. The technician will hopefully find an average setting which is a compromise to accommodate all four photos. If two photos are very dark and two photos are very light, the tech will copy them at a setting somewhere between the two photos. Thus the dark photos will transfer on the light side, and the light photos will transfer on the dark side. If you want each photo to transfer at its very best, you will probably have to use at least two, maybe four sheets of transfer paper, and put each photo on its own sheet of transfer paper. You will also probably have to pay for each photo as a separate copy. This can sound pricey, but it may really be worth it in the long run. Think of it as an investment: you are going to put dozens, if not hundreds, of hours into your photo quilt project, and you don’t want to stint on the quality of your images. There’s an old farmer’s saying, “You don’t dig a two-bit hole for a two dollar tree…”

Good luck with whatever method you choose! 

* The longevity of some ink-jet inks has improved since this was written, but be sure to check this issue thoroughly before you invest a lot of money and time in a large project.

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